The weather continues to amaze. 30 C, high pressure, clear skies and light winds. It has been like this for the past ten days. Most unusual!! Our last report was from Canna, in the Small Isles. From there we back-tracked to the mainland, to Inverie on the Knoydart Peninsular. This remote area can only be reached by a five mile boat trip from Mallaig or by a 20 mile hike through the mountains. Until 1999 it was owned by a succession of clan chiefs and then by southern "wealthies" who used it as a hunting and fishing retreat. Population peaked at around 2,000 in the 1850's before the "clearances" to make space for sheep. The last owners were Mathesons who made a fortune selling opium to the Chinese in Hong Kong and went on to found Jardine Matheson, a major UK/Hong Kong insurance and banking empire. By 1999 population of Inverie was down to 84 people. They, with help from outsiders led by Chris Brasher (Olympic runner) raised the funds to purchase the land and set it aside as a Wilderness Preserve. Some old buildings have been restored as bunk-houses and a camping area developed. Electricity comes from a community-developed mini-hydro plant. Each year Knoydart attracts a growing number of hikers and climbers. (There are three Munros on the Peninsular). It is a popular stop for cruising yachts. The old smiddy (blacksmith) forge has been converted into a restaurant where we tucked in to local scallops and salmon over a herby salad followed by a walnut, whisky and chocolate tart with ice cream....(bangers and mash the fare onboard tonight!).
Our next stop was Plockton by way of the Kyle of Lochalsh where the tide runs up to 8 knots through the narrows that are now spanned by a high-level bridge joining Skye to the Mainland. Plockton was once a vibrant fishing port but is now a favourite lunch-stop for tour busses doing day trips out of Glasgow. The bay is ringed by brightly painted row houses each with it's own garden running down to the water on the opposite side of the road. Gardening seemed to be something of a competitive sport and garden tours were popular.
Portree is the major town on Skye although the anchorage is a bit exposed and subject to strong southerly and westerly winds rushing down from the mountains. No such problem while we were there. After topping up supplies and water and doing a laundry at the Youth Hostel we moved 10 miles up the Sound of Rassay to Acairseid Mor reputed to be one of the most beautiful anchorages in Scotland. Completely landlocked and surrounded by mixed forests and low hills. We have been here three times on past trips and are looking forward to some hiking tomorrow.
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